Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Delicious food travelers love in Ha Giang

Ha Giang special food
Ha Giang special food
Ha Giang is not only known as a mountainous province with spectacular landscapes, customs and traditions, colorful festivals, sheer limestone mountains but also we see it as a piece of land with of attractive natural products and one of the best attractions that lure travelers is the food culture with dishes made from many materials available in nature that have become exotic, interesting and impressive specifically available only in the highland region of Ha Giang

In this article I will introduce some specialties of Ha Giang land that have become famous and I myself have tried during our Ha Giang adventures. If you have a chance to visit this region just don't forget to taste them.

1 - Banh Cuon Trung (Rice rolls with eggs)
In the cold stone land of Ha Giang, one must eat something really hot, so hot air to fight the gloom air emanating from the rocks. But Egg rolls, specialty of the border land is a "cold dish", used with hot soup cooked from bone, sweet and tasty.

When the sauce is ready, you just dip the thin piece of rice, wrap with red color of egg yolk, everything is deep in the self-made sauce and enjoy the strange and tasty flavour of the remote land.

Some places to enjoy Banh Cuon Trung:
- Banh Cuon Mrs Lan, address 116A Ly Tu Trong street, Ha Giang town.
- Banh Cuon shop, just across the old Dong Van market

2 - Chau Au Tau (Au Tau porridge)
In Ha Giang there are unique dishes that make visitors never forget. Bitter Porridge or Chao Au Tau is one of them.
In a cold winter night, wandering in the town of Ha Giang, take a seat at the corner of the restaurant and order a bowl of Chao Au Tau, full gamut of taste in a small bowl of soup: fragrant glutinous rice mixed with aromatic rice cultivated on upland well cooked, the buttery flavour of a bulb of Au well cooked with pig trotters soup, odor herbs, spice leaves...A bowl of Chao Au Tau looks very attractive by harmonious combination of rice, minced meat, bone water, herbs... It is not easy to make Chao Au Tau, the bulb of Au is thoroughly soaked in strong rice water and stewed in 4 hours. Sticky rice Hoa Vang is mixed with white rice cooked in broth chopped pork leg and Au flour, add a little chopped lean meat, another little extra spice, the porridge tastes bitter and many people called bitter porridge.
Many visitors to Ha Giang, enjoy the tasty Chao Au Tau for the first time would return for it. Chao Au Tau is not just a dish but also a medicine for cold. Chao Au Tau is available in Ha Giang all seasons however only sold in the evening. In the cold winter night in the mountains, sitting in a warm restaurant by the red flame kitchen and savor Au Tau porridge is also an interest for those who love to discover new things.

3 - Thang Co
The aroma of cardamom, nuts and lemongrass, mingled with the fat of the meat warm the air in the cold weather of winter. H'mong men to Dong Van market all want to have a bowl of Thang Co soup, drink some cups of wine with friends. Men who have many friends are invited to many wine, those who are drunk at the end of the market session is considered as blessed for having many friends. 

The market in Dong Van has been rebuilt, look similar to markets in the cities however the roofs and ceilings cannot replace the umbrellas of ethnic women. In the middle of the market, the Thang Co shops are placed behind the foodstuff. Pork, buffalo, beef is hanging for sale in the big hooks, the wine shops are right beside the Thang Co shops, wine is stored in the big plastic can or ceramic jars carried on horseback from the early morning or the night before, a world of wines mingled with the flavour of hot fiery leaves.

H'mong people usually bring to market Men Men, a kind of corn cakes, when they come to market they buy a couple of wines and a bowl of Thang Co is enough to make a party with friends. You must squat when eating Thang Co, the bowls are put on a long wooden span and served by a wooden spoon, there is always a bowl of salt and hot chili, a little salt would make the Thang Co very strong. Thang Co must be eaten with friends so that you can talk about family, health and business and the sounds of cheers go all about the market. When you begin to get drunk people would sing and play flut, all men and women can be drunk at the Thang Co table.

4 - Com Lam in Bac Me (Sticky rice cooked in bamboo pipe)
Ha Giang is a fertile region with delicious sticky rice that has become famous, the Com Lam Bac Me is becoming a special dish of the Tay ethnic people here.
Techniques to process Com Lam is simple, raw materials is sticky rice treated thoroughly and soaked in water from underground sources, put in a bamboo pipe and blocked with banana leaves, people use young bamboo, cut into tubes with one end open and the other end is blocked, like the bottom of the pan, glutinous rice is washed carefully, add some salt, mix well and put into the tubes, pour water approximately above the rice. The open end of the bamboo pipe is blocked with dried banana leaves and then grill on fire or put under the fire wood, spin the tube around slowly to make the rice heat up evenly. As long as an hour or less (depending on how big the pipe is), the fragrance of glutinous rice spread out then the Com Lam is ready.

Before eating, use a knife and remove the green skin outside the pipe (now burned black) and the white layer inside, the Com Lam is shaped in the form of a pipe, surrounded by an ivory silk shell of bamboo tube. In the old days Com Lam is a priority for pregnant women and women who were feeding new born babies. A scientific explanation, that eating Com Lam will avoid the nature of copper, iron, aluminum as cooked by metal pan and therefore would not affect the quality of milk of the mother, when eating the Com Lam has the fragrance coupled with banana leave and grilled pipe, Com Lam can be eaten with sesame or grilled fish from river.

5 - Reu Nuong (grilled moss)
Moss from rock has been considered a kind of aquatic plant. But for the Tay people in Xuan Giang commune, Quang Binh district, stone moss is a special dish.
The food processed from stone moss is also call Que, this is a tasty and nutritious dish with unique flavour. According to local people, when they go looking for moss they usually go to large fields where moss is plenty and tasty, moss is washed thoroughly until it is free from sand, moss then can be processed into different dishes.
Moss from streams is plenty however less delicious. Moreover moss is seasonal so for people here, moss is a precious dish. Moss can be cooked in different dishes such as fried, dried however the most delicious and original grilled with difference spices.
Tay people say "Que chi ap, tap chi ho", means moss should be grilled on charcoal. When the moss is grilled you don't spin the bag of moss but grill one side of the bag then the other side, when tapping the bag with two fingers and feel soft inside then the moss is ready. Since the moss is seasonal so in addition to processing fresh moss people also dry the moss, put in the kitchen to make food reserves. Only the distinguished guests are treated dry moss in the kitchen.

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Ha Giang tourism developes

Ha Giang department of Culture and Information in corporation with Tourism Promotion Centre has organized a training course on "Community Tourism of Ha Giang in 2015". Attending the course are 42 students who are in charge of cultural affairs in the villages with community tourism, management board and households offering homstay service in Phuong Thien and Phuong Do communes of Ha Giang town.

Ha Giang in Vietnam
Ha Giang in Vietnam
The training course is attended by lecturer from Hanoi Tourism College with content: Overview of the tourism development of Ha Giang province, the role of eco-environmental protection with development of tourism activities, characteristics and needs of tourists coming to the community-based cultural villages, some models of management, operation and distribution of profits for community tourism products. Practice how to decorate, arrange furniture in the house, methods of processing some traditional dishes to serve tourists, some principles in interacts with tourists. The training course is not only to equip people with basic knowledge of business, community tourism activities, but also help people orient the economic development in a sustainable way according to the model of economic tourism, thereby contribute to local economic development, 

In order to raise the level of knowledge for professional management team, directors and deputy directors, business owners and service staff in hotels, motels and restaurants in town and also helps operate the business activities more effective, the training course on "Business Management for customer service at hotels, guesthouses and restaurants" was held in 2 days at Ha Giang museum hall, there were 20 people attended including 5 participants from hotels and restaurants in town. Content of the course was to convey to students necessary stills such as basic communication skills with tourists, objects and mentality of tourists, promotion and marketing in the hotels, restaurants, handling situations in operating hotels, guesthouses and restaurants. This is an opportunity for accommodation establishments and restaurants in the City and other districts in Ha Giang province to exchange, share of experiences to serve guests better.

Ha Giang is the province with great potential for tourism development. However, to put up the smokeless industry development, Ha Giang is trying to build and implement successful strategies for tourism development. Since Dong Van Plateau has officially become a member of network of global geoparks, Ha Giang is determined to implement the strategy to become a tourist centre in north Vietnam. This determination is expressed through the building of Ha Giang's strategic development with the goal to receive 1.9 million visitors in 2015, with 340 thousand foreign tourists, revenue from tourism, services reach 2 trillion Vietnam Dong.

To accomplish this goal, Ha Giang province is expected to improve the existing accommodation facilities on 122 hotels and guest houses with 1,687 rooms, 45 village community cultural tourism. By 2020, Ha Giang tourism sector is expected to receive about 3 million tourists, with 650 thousand foreign visitors, total revenue of over 3 trillion Dong. The accommodation facilities are raised to 150 motels, hotels and resorts, with a total of 4000 rooms, 88 community-based tourism cultural villages

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Useful tips for a tour to Ha Giang

Travel Ha Giang
Travel Ha Giang
My tour Ha Giang was on the occasion of national holiday Reunification day 30th April and Labor day 1st May and things were more expensive than usual. Along the way I met many motorbike groups on their way to Ha Giang, some groups had 5 to 7 bikes, one group had up to 13 bikes. Tours to Ha Giang from Hanoi this time was quite bustling. Not only young people, there were also elderly people visit Ha Giang with their families, people come there to set foot on the border line of our homeland, watching the rocky plateau of Dong Van and conquer the legendary Ma Pi Leng Pass.
Beautiful weather, there were only 2 of us, a few times "almost" no accommodation, run out of petrol mid way and overcharged...There are many things I learnt during the 3 day 2 night adventure to Ha Giang I would like to share with you, on accommodation, about problems on the road and the itinerary as well.
Although we had searched for information and tips about Ha Giang travel on the net, referred to friends we did not actually had something specific, except the way. So in this article I will share with you all the experiences in my last trip in Ha Giang attractive places

Best time to visit Ha Giang:
Ha Giang is said beautiful all seasons, I do not deny it, Ha Giang is famous for Dong Van rock plateau, Lung Cu flagpole, Ma Pi Leng pass, Vuong family palace...Ha Giang is still beautiful from season to season, still imposing despite the time. However, there are also some certain time periods, Ha Giang is nicer by the colors of the flowers: Tam Giac Mach, specialty for travelers, just about the end of October to December people all gather to Ha Giang to enjoy the beauty of Tam Giac Mach flower, the purple flowers spread across the hillside. And also in this time, Ha Giang is embellished with yellow color of Cabbage flower, Ha Giang is very cold this season, you may see frost and sometimes it also snows in the area. Experience the frigid cold winter in the northern mountainous region, trembling with a cup of coffee in hand, sip a bowl of Au Tau porridge, clicking a glass of corn wine...Nothing is as great as that?
Winter passes, the first days of Spring approach. Then the plum, peach flowers blooming. Come to Ha Giang this time to witness with your own eyes the vitality of all things in the rocky plateau, perhaps a wonderful experience. Personally I will be back to Ha Giang some spring, holding a glass of corn wine, to self-heat my soul. Adventure tours in north Vietnam
Summertime is rainy season, there are sudden shower. Ha Giang in Autumn is more beautiful with paddy terraces, though not as much as Sapa or Mu Cang Chai but it brings a particular beauty.
Have you chosen your time to visit Ha Giang, if you have made up your mind let's move on to means of transport.

How to get to Ha Giang?
There are two ways for you to get to Ha Giang. It's by car or motorcycle. I choose motorcycles for my journey. Motorcycle suit people who like freedom, adventurous and risky feeling.
Car is the choice for people who put safety first, however travel by bus in your private tours to Ha Giang from Hanoi usually run at night and you will not be able to view the roadside scenery to the fullest. So I will let you make your own choice to travel by car or motorbike

Travel to Ha Giang by motorbike or private car:
I would really admire if you go by motorbike. Biking to Ha Giang is not a short journey. Your reason is to conquer the road or overcome yourself? This road is about 300 - 320 km, and there are 2 routes to choose from
First route (I chose this one)
Starting from Hanoi to Son Tay (via highway 21 in Co Nhue) then onto Trung Ha bridge, turn right at Son Tay township or straight on to La Thanh - Co Tiet - Phong Chau bridge (After Phong Chau bridge you turn left along Thao
river) to Phu Tho township - Doan Hung district then to Tuyen Quang province, in Tuyen Quang you take national highway 2 to Ha Giang without going through Tuyen Quang town.
If you go to Ha Giang by this route the road is deserted and 30 km shorter, there are fewer traffic police ;) It took me nearly 9 hours from Hanoi to Ha Giang (12.30am to 21.20 pm) including lunch and photo stops.
Second route:
From Hanoi via Thang Long bridge, turn to Vinh Phuc province - Viet Tri town - Phu Tho province - Tuyen Quang town - Ha Giang, this route has more passenger buses and more crowded than the first route.

Travel to Ha Giang by public passenger bus
You can catch a bus to Ha Giang from My Dinh station in Hanoi, my tip for you is to buy ticket in advance so that you have a seat and avoid being cramed. You can make a booking by some ways, call directly to bus companies or go to booking agent by yourself.
I have consulted and collected a list of passenger buses for your choice, you can refer to the list of Ha Giang buses, remember to call ahead to update price.
Return to my article, after arriving in Ha Giang by bus you can rent a motorbike to visit nearby beautiful places, or you can join a bus tour to Dong Van however I recommend that you rent a motorbike in Ha Giang town.

To rent a motorbike in Ha Giang you can refer to one of the contacts below:
Hong Dao motorbike rental service:
Phone 0915.842.019 or 0165.398.2928
Address 10 Pham Hong Thai street, Group 17, Minh Khai ward, Ha Giang town
(close to Minh Khai junior secondary school)
Bao Thanh motorbike rental service:
Address: 31 Nguyen Thai Hoc street, Ha Giang town
Mr Nam, phone 0917.797.269 – 0978.159.123
Bay motorbike rental service:
Address 47 Ly Thuong Kiet street, group 15, Tran Phu ward, Ha Giang town
phone: 0986.030.405 – 0125.515.5568 – 0915.273.882
Tuan Anh motorbike rental service:
phone: 0906.175.336
Giang Son motorbike rental service:
Address 170 Tran Hung Dao road, Ha Giang town
phone: 0988. 470.863 or 0962.761.081

Travel itinerary in Ha Giang by motorbike or private car
Brief itinerary: Ha Giang town - Quan Ba district - Yen Minh district - Sa Phin - Vuong family palace - Lung Cu peak - Dong Van rock plateau - Ma Pi Leng pass - Meo Vac district - Bao Lam district - Bac Me - Ha Giang.
Day 1: Spend your time on the road to Ha Giang, arrange a hotel room in town for a shower, go out for dinner, take a walk around city and spend the night in Ha Giang town, please note that you need to arrange permit at Ha Giang police station so that you can enter the area of 4 border districts, you can arrange it through your hotel.
Day 2: Get up early and check out (get up early so that you have more time to visit sightseeing places in Ha Giang). Fill the fuel tank with a spare bottle of petrol. Go straight to Quan Ba district, if you have time enough please stop over Lung Khuy grotto, a newly discovered cave in Quan Ba and the famous Quan Ba heaven gate. About 15km from Ha Giang town the road started becoming spectacular, the passes winding around the mountain, the distant mountains covered with floating white clouds. The higher you go the more beautiful scenes you have. The road from Quan Ba to Yen Minh (60km) is quite scenic especially the pine forest in Yen Minh, the sides of the road are covered with pine trees, feel like we are traveling in Da Lat pine forest, you can stop here camping and lunch.
From Yen Minh, there are 2 roads to Dong Van or Meo Vac, you turn towards Dong Van, in a short drive you arrive in Dong Van with the first rocky mountain beginning to appear then to a winding pass quite nice that I do not know the name. Over the pass you arrive in Sa Phin heaven gate (the junction of Lung Cu flagpole and Vuong house). This time is about 2-3 pm, you turn to Vuong family mansion (or Hmong King palace) for a short visit then return to junction and continue to Lung Cu flag post (26km). The stretch of road from heaven gate to Lung Cu is incredibly beautiful. Rocks undulating like the waves. Beautiful, magnificent and breathtaking, this part is the most spectacular road in Ha Giang.
It time permits you can visit Pho Bang old quarter in the border gate area (7km from Sa Phin) and then return to Lung Cu. Please note that when you arrive in Lung Cu, don't park your car at the foot of the mountain at the military post and keep driving up to the flagpost. If you are not allowed
to go this way you can trace your way back to the junction, right at the start of the road there is a way to the village of Lo Lo people, you can go straight to the flagpole. Pay your entrance fee there and you can save your time and efforts of climbing stairs.
Leaving Lung Cu flagpole, you still have plenty of time to wander around Lo Lo village. Then turn back to the town of Dong Van (approx ~ 22km). To arrange a hotel room in town.
In the evening you can go out for a walk, enjoy barbecue and corn wine, have a cup of coffee or go to bed early to save energy for the next days.
End of day 2
Day 3: Get up early and go out for breakfast in the Old street area, there are many dishes: Banh Cuon, Au Tau and Thang Co soup...Return to hotel, check out the room and continue to Ma Pi Leng pass.
Ma Pi Leng pass is the stretch of road that connects Dong Van and Meo Vac districts (22 km). On top of the pass you can look down the Nho Que river. It is very beautiful everywhere from beginning to finish of the pass. No photo can display the splendid spectacle of Ma Pi Leng pass, no wonder Ma Pi Leng is called the King of passes in Vietnam.
Leaving Ma Pi Leng pass behind you arrive in Meo Vac for lunch, after lunch is a 150 - 180 km drive back to Ha Giang town, you can choose one of the 3 ways:
- Meo Vac to Lung Phin (if you are lucky you can visit colorful Lung Phin market that opens every 6 days on the days of Tiger and Monkeys on lunar calendar) then to Yen Minh - Quan Ba and Ha Giang, this way you will track back the original road.
- Meo Vac to Lung Ho - Mau Due - Du Gia, I recommend this route as it has become legenday for motorbike travelers for its beauty and dangers and finish in Ha Giang town
- Meo Vac to Bao Lam and Bao Lac district - Bac Me and Ha Giang. I chose this road as I did not return to Ha Giang and continued on to Cao Bang in our northeast loop tours Vietnam.
Arriving in Ha Giang town, spend one more night in town and return to Hanoi next day. End of the trip

Sleeping in Ha Giang
In Ha Giang town: I have spent hours going around town to find the hostel. As the day was 30th April and all hotels were full. We were very lucky that at least we found Duc Giang hotel, only aprox 6 usd for a room with 2 beds, just across the bus station, the room is basic but has hot water, very good deal for a night.
If you want to stay in a better choice there are plenty of hotels along the main road to town, rates from 10 - 20 usd
Dong Van: According to bus drivers and motorbike travelers, best hotel choice is Hoang Ngoc hotel, right at the Dong Van market, rates from 8 - 10 USD a room with 2 or 3 beds, breakfast not included. The guesthouse at the end of the street is also good, backpackers can sleep at 1 usd/person, there are about 6-7 cheaper hostels around town, approx 8 usd/room. A popular place for young Vietnamese travelers is Old Street coffee, however this place is only the last choice as the bathroom is not clean and has mosquitoes

Eating in Ha Giang
Im not a big fan of cuisine however I know some famous dishes in Ha Giang such as Banh Cuon, Thang Co soup, Bac Me sticky rice, Au Tau porridge, Five color sticky rice, dry beef and corn wine, be careful as you may mistake with Chinese wine that makes you headache as told by local people.
In Ha Giang I had supper at Trung Lan restaurant, just near the city square, this restaurant opens at night. In Dong Van I had dinner at Xuan Bang restaurant, for breakfast I went to an old lady selling Banh Cuon just across my hotel in Dong Van.

Ha Giang travel tips:
If you travel by motorbike remember to bring along driving license, petrol reserves (1.5 litre bottle), spare parts and repair set with pump, these items are necessary as the roads in Ha Giang are rugged and bumpy and there is no repair shops
Clothing: In winter you need to bring scarf, gloves and warm clothes, you can choose light jacket. In summer you can bring a sweater as it is a bit cold at night in the mountain highland.
Medication: abdominal pain, headache, allergic, anti-mosquito cream, gauze, first aid items...If you go camping you must have anti-mosquito and insects along with firewood, pot and pan for cooking.

Thursday, June 4, 2015

Problems visitors usually have in Ninh Binh trip

Ninh Binh tour is one of the most attractive place in north Vietnam and is referred to as Halong bay on land. Located 120 km south of Hanoi, travelers usually visit Ninh Binh in a day trip that covers some famous area like Hoa Lu ancient citadel, Tam Coc caves, Trang An complex and Bai Dinh pagoda...In this post I would like to share some experience so that you guys can avoid possible annoyances in your trip to Ninh Binh.

- Boat trip in Tam Coc: The most common complaint we had from customers is about the boat rowers. They try to make money from tourists by pushing visitors to buy souvenirs, take photos and ask for a tip and always express disappointment if you don't have some money for them. One of my client Claudia Magdalena from Spain told us that the rower of her boat opened a box under the seat which is full of embroideries, pillow sheets, T-shirts, saying that the made by herself with a lot of hard work and wanted to sell at high price, other young ladies followed them all the way on other boats, they took photos and then tried to sell the pictures. At the end of the boat trip she was surrounded by a groups of people selling water and soft drinks, they urged her to buy drinks for the rower...What should you do in this situation? just say no firmly and politely and don't show any interest. About the tip, please have some money handy for the rowers, about 50.000 vnd (2 usd) per person is fine. 

Rescue centre in Cuc Phuong forest
Rescue centre in Cuc Phuong forest
- Visit Cuc Phuoc national park: The Monkey Rescue Centre is located in Cuc Phuong forest with it's aim to rescue, provide care to the precious types of monkey in Vietnam and release them back to nature, the Monkey rescue Centre has nearly 160 individuals of monkey such as white head langur...Visitors have to pay entrance to get in plus an extra guiding service. What made visitors annoyed the must is the bad environment, empty cans and plastic bottles can be found everywhere. The trek in the forest takes about 2 hours, remember to wear good shoes as it rains very often in the area, and go to toilet before the trek if you don't want to take a long way back to the centre as there is no toilet around, perhaps the visitors see the forest as a big natural toilet and there is no need to build one.

- Hoa Lu temples of Kings: The temples are dedicated to King Dinh and King Le, said to be built in 10th century however what visitors see is a small temple built in 17th century as the original temple was destroyed in the war, there is nothing special about these temples as they are almost similar to the many temples in Hanoi, unless you are escorted by an English speaking guide you cannot read any sign nor description about the place. Hoa Lu should be only a coffee stop rather than a tourist destination as described by tour companies, ah yes, like any other place in Ninh Binh, Hoa Lu is full of photographer hawkers who trouble your visit.

- Bai Dinh pagoda: One of the biggest pagodas in south east Asia, Bai Dinh was a newly built pagoda, it is like a tourist attraction rather than a Buddhism place as people feel the lack of a spirit of religion. The pagoda is free to enter however you need to pay 1 USD to park the bike plus 2.5 USD transfer by bus from the entrance to the main part of the pagoda. There are many big statues however they are not beautiful. If you want to see a big pagoda building then Bai Dinh is the place and that's it.