Monday, October 31, 2016

How to travel to Mu Cang Chai by yourself

Every year when the harvest season comes, lovers of photography of travelers flock to the highland area where there are bewitching terraced rice fields. And the best destination is Mu Cang Chai district in Yen Bai province. In this entry I will give you some information about how to travel Mu Cang Chai tours. In addition to beautiful paddy terraces, you can also learn the unique features of H'mong ethnic people in the region. A life of poverty but warm with friendliness, something difficult to find in today’s modern life. The highlights of the trip to Mu Cang Chai include the terraced rice fields stretching up to the clouds, taste the famous sticky rice and enjoy hot spring bath at Tu Le, feel the life of H'mong people.

Best time to visit Mu Cang Chai:
Mu Cang Chai in Vietnam
Mu Cang Chai in Vietnam
Harvest season in Mu Cang Chai tours is around mid September to the end of October. I recommend that you check information with hotels there before coming. Another time to visit Mu Cang Chai is May or June when H'mong people start planting rice. It’s also very beautiful watching the rice terraces reflecting the sunshine. It would be a bit too rush if you travel 2 days with motorbike or 3 days by car.

Travel to Mu Cang Chai by car:
The distance from Hanoi to Mu Cang Chai is about 280 km, it takes almost a day if you travel by public bus, you can spend the night in Tu Le commune or Mu Cang Chai town, spend your evening at leisure or walking around, and on day 2 you will spend the whole day wandering the featiful paddy fields, I recommend that you rent a motorbike, beautiful places to take photo is from Tu Le to Mu Cang Chai, stop at La Pan Tan commune where there are many rice terraces, the main point of Mu Cang Chai area. If you like walking you can catch the bus to La Pan Tan and then keep walking pass the high mountains for sightseeing, return to Hanoi on day 3 of the trip.

Bike rental in Mu Cang Chai
You can contact and book before hand with the number belows: 0296263064 or 01665684574.
A motorbiking adventure to Mu Cang Chai must be the first choice to behold the spectacular rice terraces, you can stop anywhere to take photos. Some highlights in your trip includes La Pan Tan rice terraces, Lim Mong valley, Khau Pha pass, especially you should go deep into La Pan Tan area, there is a dirt path along the valley, go deeper into the area you will find many wondeful corners to take beautiful photos.

If your time is limited you can take 2 and a half day with following options
- Drive in the evening from Hanoi to Nghia Lo 190 km, you should start early as it may be dangerous to travel at night, especially if it is your first time traveling or those who have problems with eyes. Day 2 ride exploring the beautiful scenery at Khau Pha pass, the Lim Mong valley and La Pan Tan, sleeping in Mu Cang Chai. Day 3 back to Hanoi, visit some places on the way, lunch at Thu Cuc. If you have lunch at Nghia Lo you will arrive in Hanoi late.
- Take the train to Sapa on the evening of Friday, next day ride the bike from Lao Cai to Mu Cang Chai about 200km, the train will arrve in Lao Cai about 5.00 am. If you start early you can arrive in Mu Cang Chai for lunch and spend the afternoon in Mu Cang Chai, day 3 sightseeing around in the morning before returning to Hanoi, arrive late in Hanoi about 10pm. This option will be harder and more tiring, please consider if you are not really healthy as it is difficult to sleep on train for some people and you will be tired the next day
With option 3 days you will have more time to visit and take photos. Day 1 ride straight up to Mu Cang Chai, use your cameras in Khau Pha pass and Lim Mong valley, overnight in Mu Cang Chai. Day 2 focus on shooting and wandering in La Pan Tan, overnight in Nghia Lo, don’t forget to try snake specialty. On day 3 you can travel to Suoi Giang, if you go to Ta Xi Lang you should start early. Afternoon drive to Hanoi.

- Suoi Mo hotel: Tel: 029 3878 643 - 0915 842 789 (1 vote for this guest house, with a lovely double rooms)
- Moon guesthouse, centre of Mu Cang Chai district, Tel: 0293 878929 - 0912 05 8899 - 016 5678 2888. The hostel has internet access, breakfast, and motorbike for rent
- Son Ca motel, tel 0293 878 185 - 0988 981 675
- Buu Dien guesthouse, contact Mr Thanh tel 0975644965 to book or you can ask him to contact people if you want a homestay.
Several other motels along the main road. Should contact soon if youu go in harvest season, ensure your booking by making a down payment.

Hotels in Nghia Lo - Yen Bai (A big town and should have more choices, if you go on holiday should book in advance).
- Nghia Lo hotel, Tel: 029 3870 106 - 029 3870 428 - 0985 563 563
- Mien Tay hotel - Nghia Lo, Tel: 029 3870 698 - 029 3871 223
Prices range from 150.000 - 200.000 vnd a room for 2 people

Motels in Tu Le
- Hoang Quan motel, this motel offers herbal bath, pretty good. Room rates between 150.000 - 180.000 vnd a room, group share available. Contact: 0293.897126
- Xom Vang guesthouse, located right at the beginning of Tu Le townlet, on the way Nghia Lo to Mu Cang Chai, small rooms, en suite bathroom, dining is available, rates 180.000 vnd a room with 2 single beds. Phone: 0293.897205 - 0918.177325 - 0982385440.
- Chuyen Dung restaurant, pretty famous. Motels combined with restaurant, most expensive in Tu Le 220.000 - 250.000 vnd for a twin room. Dining room is just downstairs. Food is bought up very quickly, need to order in advance, this motel is famous for sticky rice with chicken
- Pho Nui Hostel in Tu Le Tel: 029 3897 115 - 0986 308 761.
- Suoi Tien motel, phone number: 029625512 - 0974357912
- Post Office motel, phone number: 01664851820.

Combine Mu Cang Chai trip with other places:
You can make a long trip to Mu Cang Chai and Sapa. Arrange a trip for 4 to 6 days. In the north there are 4 places to see rice terraces is Mu Cang Chai, Sapa, Bac Son valley and Hoang Su Phi (Ha Giang).

Thursday, October 27, 2016

Dong Cao highland, top destination in Bac Giang

Located at the east end of Bac Giang province and adjacent to Lang Son. Son Dong is a mountainous district with many ethnic groups. It is a good idea to learn about ethnic culture

Dong Cao highland
Dong Cao highland
From Ha Noi you can travel along the new Highway 1A to Lang Son province. Arriving in Bac Giang town you turn left at Ke intersection to national way 31, continue the way about 90km to the centre of Thach Son commune, from here you can ask local people for the way to Dong Cao.

One thing is the way from the center of the commune to Dong Cao is quite difficult to drive and on rainy days it is extremely difficult to go. You’d better prepare a good pair of walking shoes, some people had to walk all the way.

Dong Cao is the destination between the valley covered by haze almost throughout the year, the mountains overlapping in the distance, sometimes a little house built with mud or earth situated on the hillside, but it’s quite fun to come here. Last time when I was here there were no electricity as Son Dong is the poorest district in Bac Giang, therefore remember to charge your phone or camera battery full before coming to Dong Cao, otherwise you need to go to the district town to have it recharged.

Travel to Dong Cao, you need just 2 days and 1 night is enough, but remember that you need to bring along a camp to stay overnight, a light blanket is also handy although summer climate in this area is pretty cool in the day time and a bit cold at night, you don’t need to bring firewood as you can buy here from local people. The best thing to do in Dong Cao is perhaps taking photo of sunset, don’t miss it.

A vast land with big and small blocks of stone all look very catchy, the stone blocks stand next to each other with different shapes and sizes. This destination is not known to many people but very fascinating. Come on now, let’s set up the program, Dong Cao is the place you can visit all year round but summer will be the most beautiful time.

Sunday, October 23, 2016

Special hill tribe markets in north Vietnam travelers cannot miss

Those who have visited the hill tribe markets in northern mountainous region of Vietnam would never forget the special impressions of the markets in the area.

hill tribe market in Vietnam
hill tribe market in Vietnam
For a very long time, the weekly markets of ethnic minority groups in northwest Vietnam have become an indispensable activity in the life of ethnic peoples. Besides trading the market is also a cultural activity for the ethnic groups.

Almost every district has a market day on a specified date of the month (on the lunar calendar) such as Quang Uyen market on 1st, 6th, 11th, 16th...Lung Phin market on the dates of the Tiger and the Monkey. Each time when the market day comes the streams of people from villages in the mountains and valleys flock to the market and make it a bustling place. The markets in the highlands have become the lifestyle of local people.

Coming to a district visitors would feel the special of each market, such as the colorful brocade clothes of H'mong people in Ha Giang, the iron knives and agricultural tools in Cao Bang markets or the buffaloes and dogs in Mu Cang Chai. Joining the market-goers one would feel the beauty and attractions hidden behind, it's not prominent and sophisticated but simple and rustic. Goods at the markets are the labor and hardworking products of highland people. Furthermore, these products also reflect the "breath of life", the traditional culture of each ethnic group, such as working tools (knives, hoes in Quang Uyen), traditional musical instruments (H'mong flutes)...

People go to market with different purposes, to buy and sell products, to meet friends...All have made a particular beauty of the hill tribe markets. Young girls wear the traditional colorful costumes with charming smiles on their faces, the H'mong boys play music and dance, many of them have become husbands and wives from the markets, they fell in love from the sounds of music and dances and the market days have become an expected time for young people.

In the old days when the traffic was difficult, people went to market on horseback or on foot, many had to walk overnight to go to market, people came to buy food for the whole week, now everything is much easier, from road condition, transportation and food, people can go shopping at cities but never miss a weekend market.

As the quality of life improves, the weekend markets also change, but the traditional beauty, the cultural identity of all ethnic groups are still very well preserved in the markets.
Some special hill tribe markets in north Vietnam travelers cannot miss:

Can Cau market in Si Ma Cai
Located about 100 km from Lao Cai city, the narrow road is not easy to go with sharp curves and steep slopes. But it is the hard way that makes visitors more excited. Most people to Can Cau market are Flower H'mong and Dzay. Can Cau market opens on Saturday mornings. From early morning crowds of people in colorful clothes hurry to the bustling market by all means of transport, along with them are herds of cows, buffaloes, dogs...Although Can Cau is not as famous as the nearby Bac Ha market it still retains the characteristics of an authentic hill tribe market, not as touristy as the market in Bac Ha. Visitors to Can Cau market will also have a chance to enjoy local dishes such as Thang Co soup, Pho with different taste.

Muong Hum market in Lao Cai
Muong Hum market opens on Sunday every week. This is the busiest day in the mountainous district Bat Xat of Lao Cai province, the market is located in a small valley just beside a stream, surrounded by sheer mountains, the Sunday market is a place to meet, exchange and purchase goods as well as a festival for ethnic people from Ha Nhi, H'mong, Dzay, Red Dzao...On market day the most attractive sight is the ground beside the stream where the horses are waiting with the hair of all colors, every now and then the neighing sounds can be heard all over the place making the painting of mountains and forest more lively, the stone bridges are busy with people walking up and down with horses. Inside the market is very noisy, the young boys and girls come here not only for trading but also to have fun, find partners and everyone wear their most beautiful clothes. Goods are displayed on the sheets of cloth on the ground, in the plastic bags or in the rattan baskets.

Dao San market in Lai Chau
Dao San market is in Phong Tho district, about 60 km from Lai Chau town. Dao San market comes every six days, the market is located at an elevation of 1500m, this is a typical highland market in Lai Chau and northwest Vietnam. From dawn, on the paths hidden in the mist are the sounds of footsteps, horses and motorbikes, the mountains seem awake with groups of young people from Ha Nhi, Dzao, Black Thai, H'mong all heading to the market. Dao San is not merely a market where people buy and sell products from the forests as well as traditional crafts...The special thing in this market is the "market culture", this is where the cultural values of ethnic groups reveal, people go to market like in a festival or New Year, visitors can see H'mong boys walking by a horse with a flute on one hand and a radio set on the other hand, singing the folk songs in H'mong language and perform a flute dance, the Dzao women with their babies on the back walking and weaving brocade at the same time. Coming to Dao San market visitors can also admire the beauty of the mountains and forests, sparkling waterfalls, terraced rice fields, streams, suspension bridges, villages hidden in the cloud along the winding mountain road.

Tra Linh market in Cao Bang
Tra Linh market is located in Hung Quoc township, Cao Bang province. Tra Linh market opens every five days on 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th and 29th of lunar months, the market is held on a large open ground in Hung Quoc commune. Tra Linh market is divided into three zones, one to sell local produce such as brocade, embroidery, clothes, vegetables, one zone to sell food and household tools and one zone for the cattle including cows, horses, this is really the unique feature of Tra Linh market.

On market day, from 4 am, around the paths, groups of people carrying goods and animals walking to market, each day about 60-70 buffaloes are sold, a male buffalo may cost 40 million Vietnam Dong (1800 US$) while a calf is worth 15-20 million VND, a beautiful female buffalo may cost up to 30 million. Tra Linh market attracts a lot of traders from other provinces, some of them come here to look for strong calves and train to be fighters to participate in buffalo fighting festivals, it is also where people exchange experience on how to choose and breed a buffalo, learn about market prices...Tra Linh market is a special cultural activity of ethnic people in the northern border areas.

Xin Man market in Ha Giang
Xin Man market is also known as Coc Pai market, for a long time Xin Man market has become an indispensable cultural activity of H'mong people in Ha Giang. The market is located right in the centre of town and is held every Sunday morning. Perhaps the most interesting thing after a long and dangerous journey to Xin Man is the food zone with unique dishes, what could be more enjoyable than to taste the pork barbecue by a cup of corn wine in the cool weather of a highland region!. Like other markets in the remote north, Xin Man market sells agricultural products such as corn, rice, soya bean grown by the hands of local people. The market is rather simple with the feeling of a remote place, some people come to market with a pig or dog in hand, some bring chili, pepper and roots, some come to market just to enjoy a bowl of Thang Co or a cup of corn wine...

Ta Sin Thang market in Tua Chua district, Dien Bien province
Ta Sin Thang market opens every six days on the dates of the Mouse and the Horse on lunar calendar, this is the place to exchange, trade goods, agricultural products of ethnic minorities in 5 communes of Tua Chua district. Ta Sin Thang market bears the typical features of ethnic minority groups in the northwest highland. The products for sale in the market are mostly local agricultural produce such as fruits, vegetables, young bamboo shoots, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, pigs, chickens...in addition there are traditional handicraft items like brocade, colored thread, dyes and other stuff made from very strong and beautiful fabrics. Like any other market in the northwest the pans of Thang Co soup can be seen at every corner and especially the famous Mong Pe wine made from corn. Besides the wine, Shan Tuyet tea is also a specialty of Ta Sin Thang market, this region is home to nearly 4000 ancient trees of Shan Tuyet tea, the cool climate makes the tea strong with very special taste.

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Enjoy splendid beauty of mountain passes in north Vietnam

Despite the dangerous roads and the obsession of the drivers, the top 11 mountain passes in northwest Vietnamnorthwest Vietnam always attract travelers by the wild beauty and imposing scenery

1. Ma Pi Leng pass in Ha Giang
Vietnam mountain pass
Vietnam mountain pass
One of the "Four Greatest Passes" of the North, the name Ma Pi Leng means' Horse Muzzle, this is a 20km stretch of winding road running around Ma Pi Leng peak, 2000m above the sea level, connecting 2 towns Dong Van and Meo Vac. Ma Pi Leng pass is considered the king of the most dangerous roads in Vietnam. It is understandable why this pass became a popular place of enthusiastic photographers.

2. O Quy Ho pass in Lao Cai
Dubbed as the most spectacular gorge in the north with a length of nearly 50 kilometers connecting the two provinces of Lao Cai and Lai Chau, O Quy Ho pass situated at an altitude of 2,000m, winding through the sky-high cliff and deep chasms. However, overcome the fears and climb to the top of the pass you will have the opportunity to admire the sky with floating clouds like a fairy realm. Because of that, it also has the name of Heaven Gate.

3. Pha Din pass - Son La, Lai Chau
Pha Din pass is in the in Ta Phin plateau system, with two ends located in the provinces of Son La and Lai Chau. Pha Din pass has a total length of 32km with very rugged terrain, one side is cliffs, one side is the deep chasms. Pha Din pass is famous not only for dangerous roads but also for stunning scenery. The highest point of the pass is 1.648m above the sea level.

4. Khau Pha pass in Yen Bai
The road to Khau Pha pass leads to the highest mountain peak in Mu Cang Chai - Khau Pha peak. It is ranked as the most crooked steep pass in Vietnam. This pass is particularly dangerous on foggy days because there is no barrier or any public warning signs. Khau Pha pass is located in between Van Chan and Mu Cang Chai districts, Yen Bai province, passing through many famous landmarks such as La Pan Tan, Mu Cang Chai, Tu Le, Che Cu Nha, Nam Co...at an altitude from 1.200m to 1.500m above sea level.

5. Ma Phuc pass in Cao Bang
The reason the pass is named Ma Phuc because on the two sides of the road are two blocks of limestone rocks standing like two horses bending on their knees. This is the most beautiful pass on Highway 3 from Phu Lo to Ta Lung bordergate, about 22 km from Cao Bang town. Scenery on the sides of the pass is very beautiful, especially when the Tam Giac Mach flowers are in blossom and the green corn fields in summers.

6. Xa Tong pass in Dien Bien
Xa Tong pass is located in a dangerous position from Tuan Giao to Lai Chau. The 25km long pass with no marker nor mirror. Road is in the isolated area as there is no houses around. Xa Tong pass has been abandoned long ago, no car goes this way as it is too dangerous. Watching the sunset on the pass is wonderful but it also is dangerous because it will turn dark very quickly while the road ahead is long

7. Pha Long pass in Lao Cai
The pass is called Pha Long perhaps it runs through the Pha Long market, a small commune located in Muong Khuong - Lao Cai. To reach the pass, you have to go through a rugged dirt road from Can Cau. Craggy mountain pass road with boulders perched leaning sideways, running up the river flow with nearly 20km in length.

8. Gio pass in Bac Kan
Gio (Windy) pass is 12km in length, the pass is located on Highway 3 runs from Na Phac to Van Tung, Ngan Son district. Gio pass is one of the longest and most dangerous in Bac Kan province, however it is also poetic, romantic with clouds all year round. Standing atop Gio pass one can feel the splendor of the mountains here. From the above one can see the whole town of Van Tung, Na Phac and the surrounding areas. As the pass is located on high altitude it is often covered by clouds or heavy fog, making it difficult for the drivers to observe.

9. Bac Sum pass in Ha Giang
Situated between Ha Giang and Quan Ba, the pass is winding as stacked fabric curls. From Ha Giang up to 4D highway you will encounter a sudden small ramp winding around the foothill, it is also the commencement of the journey to discover interesting Dong Van rocky plateau. Bac Sum pass is seen as a giant snake running between mountains, each curve places a challenge to the drivers. Looking down from top of Bac Sum pass travelers are stunned by the imposing beauty of mountain and forest.

10. Thung Khe pass in Hoa Binh
Thung Khe pass or the White Rock, is located between Cao Phong and Mai Chau districts of Hoa Binh province on Highway 6. The pass goes through the steep, not too long and steep but notoriously dangerous. Thung Khe pass in the morning sky is clear, the sun is scorching at midday however at dusk the whole place is covered by fog. Travelers to Mai Chau from Hanoi will have a chance to enjoy the magnificent beauty of Thung Khe pass.

11. Tam Diep pass in Ninh Binh
Three successive passes are located on National Highway 1A on the territory of Tam Diep mountain range, Ninh Binh province. Driving northwards, the first pass is 68m high, the second in the middle is 110m high and the third pass is 80 meters above sea level. To the north of Tam Diem pass has a frontier passage gate, with sheer rocky sides, therefore Tam Diep pass is a dangerous defense, bring a strategic position in the military as a natural wall on the path from north to south.

Sunday, October 2, 2016

Experience to travel Tam Coc in Vietnam

A few days ago some people asked me about experiences to travel Tam Coc area, my honor. I'm happy to share my own experience so that you can arrange a tour to Tam Coc by yourself without spending too much.

Tam Coc tour
Tam Coc tour
To enjoy full beauty of Tam Coc area I recommend that you spend 2 days instead of a day trip, it will be too rush as the drive from Hanoi to Tam Coc would cost you 3 hours each way (110 km), you can travel by private car, motorbike so that you can control your time, and if your budget is tight public bus is also a good choice, there are plenty of buses starting from Ben Xe Phia Nam bus station in Hanoi, fares is about 4 usd/person one way.

If you want to see the golden color of the rice fields then the period from the end of May to early June is best to visit Tam Coc and Ninh Binh. At that time the green color of vegetation coupled with yellow color of rice fields will make a wonderful picture with beautiful layers. After Lunar New year period you can admire the green fields stretching out to greet the spring breeze.

As mentioned  before the distance between Hanoi and Tam Coc is pretty close so you can go on a day trip. However, if you want to stay overnight to combine sightseeing spots outside the Tam Coc in Ninh Binh there are many hotels to choose from. The tourism industry in Tam Coc is pretty well developed so the accommodation facilities here are also handy to serve the needs of travelers. You can choose to stay at the affordable guesthouses around boat dock in Tam Coc, or if money is not your problem, the nearby Ninh Binh town also has good hotels 3 stars to 5 stars to choose. I myself have a good impression at Nam Hoa hotel, just a few minutes walk from tourist area, it has a large yard for parking, in the evening and morning someone will take car of your bikes, and the owner of the hotel Mrs Hoa is very friendly

Food and eating:
It is best to eat at the hotel you stay. As a habit most travelers tend to eat at a restaurant outside however in Tam Coc most restaurants are also associated with hotels, there are some choices around the boat dock such as Anh Dzung, The Long, Duc Tuan...

Specialty of Tam Coc and Ninh Binh is goat meat, especially grilled goat, the meat is crisp, thin fat very tasty. Tiet canh de (Goat blood pudding) is said very good but I don't like to drink the blood of animals. Com Chay (Burned rice) is another specialty of Ninh Binh (priced around 1 usd/boxe sold in the marketplace and in the restaurant is 2 usd a dish), but I don't like it as the oil is used many times. I felt the rice has burned fat smell and spicies are not tasty. In addition there are other delicacies that you can not ignore such as: Kim Son wine, eel soup, Yen Mac spring roll...

Tam Coc boat trip
Boat ride is the only way for you to visit Tam Coc. If traveling by road, you can just walk around outside. Ticket prices are 3.5 usd/person in 2 hours. In Tam Coc are the management of boats is very good, there are about 1500 boats of households. The boats are numbered and the families take turn to serve. I heard each boat goes two times in a month. Ah remember to have your tips ready as the boat rowers will ask for tip. While visiting Tam Coc, you should discuss this in advance with the boatman, if you want to stop to take pictures, or if you want to climb up high to find a good place to take picture of the beautiful scenery, with the experience and understanding of the place the boatman will be able to stop the boat and finding a convenient place, suitable for you to climb up the cliff. Don't stand up suddenly you will endanger yourself but also dangerous for those who go on the same boat.
Best time to do a boat ride is spring and summer as the rice on either side of the Ngo Dong river is yellow ripe. Ine summer there are often thunderstorms in Tam Coc and you should depart in the early morning. Because once you get there the weather is not too hot and most importantly avoid the rains that usually occur in the afternoon.

Souvenirs
As mentioned above, you should not buy Com Chay. You can buy some goat meat (16 usd/kg). Please always remember to ask the soy sauce and herbs as well. Goat meat is also sold live always at the hotel. If you go home via Ho Chi Minh highway you can buy sugar cane selling more on the way.

The neighborhood:
Around the Tam Coc area you can also visit Bich Dong pagoda and Trang An Bai Dinh landscape complex, Kenh Ga canal or Cuc Phuong national park, each place has it's own charm however to see all these place you need at least 2 more days.