Spectacular sights in Tam Coc

Known to travellers as ‘Halong Bay without the water’, ‘Halong Bay on the rice paddies’ and so on, Tam Coc tours breathtaking scenery. While Halong Bay (see the North-east Vietnam chapter) features huge rock formations jutting out of the sea, Tam Coc has them jutting out of its rice paddies. Some travellers will notice a striking resemblance here to Guilin and Yangshuo in China.

Boat trip in Tam Coc

Tam Coc means ‘Three Caves’, Hang Ca, the first cave, is 127m long; Hang Giua, the second, is 70m long; the third and smallest, Hang Cuoi, is only 40m. The best way to see Tam Coc day trips is by rowboat on the Ngo Dong River. The boats are rowed into the caves, and this is a very peaceful and scenic trip. The boat trip to all tree caves takes about two hours and tickets are sold at the small booking office by the docks. A boat costs 55,000d including the entry fee, and seats two passengers. Even on cloudy days, bring sunscreen and a hat or umbrella – there’s no shade in the boats. You can rent an umbrella at the pier.

You may find you need a healthy dose of patience and good humor at Tam Coc tours in Ninh Binh; if you’re prepared for a bit of a hassle then it won’t seem so irritating. One reported problem is that boat owners ask you almost constantly to buy embroidery – if you don’t want any, they will ‘suggest’ (rather strongly) that you buy a Coke for the person rowing your boat. Many travellers do this and then later find that the oarsperson simply sells the Coke back to the drink vendors for half the price.

The area behind the Tam Coc restaurants is Van Lanvillage, which is famous for it embroidery. Here you can watch the local artisans make napkins, tablecloths, pillowcases and T-shirts. A lot of these items wind up being sold on Hanoi’s Pho Hang Gai, but it’s cheaper to buy them here directly from the artisan. The village has as better selection and slightly lower prices than those available from the boat vendors.

Getting There & Away

Tam Coc is 9km southwest of Ninh Binh. Follow Hwy 1 south and turn west at the Tam Coc turn-off. Budget cafes in Hanoi book day trips to tour Tam Coc; the fast-food version goes for about US$12, or it’s closer to US$20 with a smaller group, comfortable vehicle and professional guide, Ninh Binh hotels also run day tours, and rent motorbikes and bicycles if you’re staying in town and want to make your own way there.

Hoa Lu

The scenery here resembles nearby Tam Coc, though Hoa Lu has an interesting historical twist. Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam during the Dinh (968-80) and early Le (980-1009) dynasties. The site was a suitable choice for capital city de to its proximity to China and the natural protection afforded by the region’s bizarre landscape.

The ancient citadel of Hoa Lu (admission 30,000d), most of which has been destroyed, covered an area of about 3 sq km. The outer ramparts encompassed temples, shrines and the king’s palace. The royal family lived in the inner citadel.

Yen Ngua mountain provides a scenic backdrop for Hoa Lu’s two remaining temples. The first temple, Dinh Tien Hoang, was restored in the 17th century and is dedicated to the Dinh dynasty. Out the front is the stone pedestal of a royal throne; inside are bronze bells and a statue of emperor Dinh Tien Hoang with his three sons. The second temple, Le Dai Hanh (or Duong Van Nga), commemorates the rulers of the early Le dynasty. Inside the main hall are an assortment of drums, gongs, incense burners, candle holders and weapons. On the hillside above the temples is the tomb of Dinh Tien Hoang. It’s a good climb up 207 steps, but your efforts will rewarded with great views.

 In 1998, archaeologists unearthed a ‘new’ section of the old citadel, which has been dated to the 10th century. This, and some associated artifacts, have been preserved on site and are on show in a display room built around them.

There are guides at the temples who work for free (offer a tip if you use their services) or you can wander around alone. Once you’ve got through the hassle of persistent sellers on the way in, it’s very peaceful inside the complex, especially in the late afternoon when you miss the crowds.

Getting There & Away

Hoa Lu is 12km north of Ninh Binh. There is no public transport, so most travellers get there by bicycles 9US$1 per day from Ninh Binh), motorbike or car.